The intertwined sculptures of françoise grossen, pioneer of the “fiber art”, originate from a manual technique of free and spontaneous knotting. The appearances are simultaneously weightless and weighted, both masculine and feminine.
These characteristic influenced the result of handcrafted textile manipulation in the gabriele colangelo ss21 collection. like twisted ropes, hanging from the ceiling, hand-sewn tubular braids draw elliptical lines that are then abandoned in suspension. They emphasize anatomical cuts defining the perimeter of the neckline; they are composed in overlapping frames with abstract motifs on the shoulders of the jackets.
Silk ribbons intersect as flexible and impalpable structures, layered on outerwear and dresses.
Twisted cotton threads become panels underneath the ribbed knit, knotted around the waist, or the see-through effect inserts on the bodice and rectangular plastrons on the shirt in heavy viscose twill.
Pleats blocked by maxi metal buckles create asymmetrical volumes in the light nappa top. The fronts of jacket cross, leaving the hips uncovered, as cut-out lines show the body on the back of dresses, knitted in front and woven back, or trench coats with slits highlighted by thin chain martingale.
The intense dark color of nappa becomes the material of choice for the textile selection that seeks fluidity in the architecture, in tune with movement. It creates an effect of soft light in the chromatic palette, which combines white, straw yellow and ice with tones of light blue, brick and some pale green accents.
The silk jacquard, woven with elastic fiber, imitates the designs of the smoke stitching, with effects of adhesion to the body and emphasis on the volume of the skirt.
The shoes are leather sandals with chain braids or straps with metal spheres. bags have oversized volumes in both leather and silk ribbons overlaid with embroidery. the jewels are circular elements and silver rings with an organic surface by “alighieri”.