Max Mara Spring 2027 Turns Utility Into Modern Luxury
Ian Griffiths looks to the pioneering women of the 1930s for a Milan collection built around safari tailoring, practical elegance and what the designer calls “utility lux.”
At Max Mara, practicality has never meant sacrificing polish. For Spring/Summer 2027, longtime creative director Ian Griffiths pushed that philosophy further, transforming the traditional codes of expedition dressing into a sophisticated wardrobe designed for contemporary life.
Presented during Milan Fashion Week, the collection centered on the idea of “utility lux,” with Griffiths revisiting the safari jacket, cargo vest, trench coat and other garments traditionally associated with movement, work and exploration. Instead of treating those pieces as rugged costume, Max Mara refined them through precise tailoring, elevated fabrics and the house’s controlled sense of ease.
The collection drew inspiration from the adventurous women of the 1930s who challenged expectations by traveling, flying and exploring at a time when those worlds remained overwhelmingly male. Amelia Earhart, aviator Beryl Markham, explorer Freya Stark, wildlife photographer Osa Johnson and driver Eva Dickson all informed the season’s broader image of independence.
That influence appeared most clearly in the safari jacket, which became one of the collection’s defining pieces. Max Mara rendered the silhouette in textured linen and lustrous gabardine, sometimes elongating it toward coat proportions and elsewhere stripping it down into sleeveless utility layers. Cargo pockets, practical belts and relaxed tailoring reinforced the theme without overpowering the clothes.
The utilitarian mood was balanced by a more sensual side. Sheer organza appeared in trousers, overalls and flight-inspired pieces, while halter necklines, open backs and fluid knit dresses softened the collection’s structured foundation. High-waisted trousers and long skirts added volume, often anchored by wide belts that emphasized the waist and gave the silhouettes a sense of movement.
The palette remained firmly within Max Mara territory: camel, tobacco, brown, white and other restrained neutrals created a largely monochromatic wardrobe. Rather than relying on decoration, the collection placed attention on fabrication, proportion and construction.
Accessories continued the same practical approach. Bags were designed to shift between different carrying styles, while substantial footwear and functional details reinforced the idea of clothing built to accompany a woman through the day.
For Griffiths, the collection ultimately questioned what luxury should mean. Instead of presenting fashion as something distant from everyday life, Spring 2027 suggested that usefulness itself can be desirable. A well-cut coat, an adaptable bag or a beautifully engineered jacket becomes luxurious precisely because it works.
The result is a collection that connects Max Mara’s heritage of intelligent outerwear with a woman who expects her wardrobe to keep pace with her life. Spring 2027 is less about dressing for an imaginary adventure than bringing the confidence of the explorer into the everyday.
