At Paris Fashion Week, Chloé’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection brought romance, rainwear, lingerie and archival memories together in one of Chemena Kamali’s most personal statements for the house.
Chemena Kamali has never seemed interested in running away from what makes Chloé recognizable. For Spring/Summer 2027, she went further in the opposite direction.
The creative director described the season as “The Obsession Collection,” allowing the details, silhouettes and ideas she repeatedly loves about Chloé to become the foundation of the show. That meant broderie anglaise. Lace. Lingerie. Floral embroidery. Fringe. Deep necklines. Romantic dresses. But Kamali did not leave all of that softness floating on its own.
This season, she gave it protection.
ROMANCE MEETS THE RAIN
Some of the collection’s most memorable contrasts came from delicate clothing worn alongside substantial outerwear.
Fishermen’s coats, capes, trenches, transparent vinyl and oversized rain hats appeared beside intricate white dresses and lingerie-inspired pieces. In saturated tomato red and bright yellow, the outerwear became impossible to ignore. It created a Chloé woman who could still be romantic without appearing fragile.
That tension may be one of the most interesting developments in Kamali’s work at the house. Rather than abandoning the bohemian vocabulary that helped define her first seasons, she is adding weight and structure around it.
THE DETAILS MATTER
Spring 2027 was packed with craftsmanship.
Broderie anglaise appeared across dresses, tunics and separates. Floral appliqués climbed across clothing. Lace and fringe added movement. Mother-of-pearl details introduced another layer of texture. Necklines also played an important role, moving between heart, boat, square and deep V shapes.
Accessories carried the same sense of personality. Wide-brimmed hats tilted dramatically across the face, sunglasses arrived with chains, and statement jewelry contributed to the collection’s slightly eccentric attitude.
There was even a return to Chloé history through references including the house’s tailoring and earlier accessories.
BEYOND BOHO
Calling Chloé “boho” is becoming increasingly incomplete.
Yes, the flowing dresses remain. So do the ’60s and ’70s references, the craft, the sensuality and the sense of freedom, but Kamali appears increasingly comfortable using those ideas as ingredients rather than a formula.
Spring 2027 added stronger color, practical outerwear, tailoring and harder surfaces to the softness. The result felt less like a recreation of an earlier Chloé era and more like Kamali deciding which parts of the house she wants to carry forward.
OBSESSION AS A DESIGN LANGUAGE
There is something refreshing about a designer admitting that she keeps returning to the same ideas.
Fashion often demands constant reinvention. Kamali’s approach here suggested something different: that repetition can become identity when it is refined carefully enough.
Her Chloé woman still loves lace. She still loves movement. She still looks as though she owns at least one extraordinary vintage dress, but now she also has the coat to wear over it when the weather turns – and that may be exactly where Chloé is becoming most interesting.