MILAN — For Spring 2027, David Koma sends Blumarine west, combining the house’s heightened femininity with California ease and the darker romantic vocabulary that has increasingly defined his tenure.
Titled “Cali Princess,” the collection brings together seemingly opposing worlds: gothic romance and sun-soaked sensuality. WWD characterized Koma’s approach as a collision of Californian cool with Blumarine’s darker romanticism, creating a woman who feels equally at home in a boudoir, on the beach or after dark.
Romance With an Edge
Transparency plays a major role.
Layers of diaphanous tulle reveal and obscure the body, while corseted constructions give the collection structure. Feathers introduce movement and drama, and swimwear-inspired shapes bring the California reference directly into the silhouette.
Rather than allowing those delicate elements to become overly sweet, Koma repeatedly interrupts them with stronger lines, exposed skin and more disciplined construction. The contrast gives the clothes their tension.
The result is recognizably Blumarine, but increasingly filtered through Koma’s own visual language.
From Gothic Fantasy to California Heat
Koma has been steadily reworking the romantic side of Blumarine.
His Spring 2026 collection leaned heavily into gothic storytelling, exploring dark fairy-tale imagery, sweeping gowns, sheer fabrics and elaborate surface treatments. Spring 2027 does not abandon that world. Instead, it lets more sunlight in.
There are softer pastels, lighter proportions and a sense of beachside freedom, but the collection never becomes carefree resort dressing.
Corsetry keeps the body controlled. Sheerness becomes architectural. Feathered surfaces exaggerate movement. Bare skin is treated almost like another design material.
That contrast is where Spring 2027 works best.
The Blumarine Woman Evolves
Across the runway, Koma continues positioning Blumarine away from straightforward sweetness and toward a more assertive version of femininity.
The woman wearing these clothes can be glamorous, provocative and romantic at once. A sheer dress can still feel strong. A corset can sit beside something deliberately undone. Swim references can move beyond the beach and into evening.
It is less about choosing between softness and strength than allowing both to exist in the same look.
With “Cali Princess,” Blumarine’s Spring 2027 collection continues that evolution—bringing California heat into Koma’s darker universe without losing the sensuality that has always been central to the house.