Inspired by the monumental fiber sculptures of Françoise Grossen, Roksanda Ilinčić brought braiding, fringe, bold color and sculptural silhouettes to Spring/Summer 2027 — while introducing a stronger focus on everyday dressing.
Roksanda Ilinčić presented her Spring/Summer 2027 collection on the rooftop garden of London’s National Theatre, placing her colorful, sculptural designs against one of the city’s best-known Brutalist landmarks.
The setting suited a collection built around shape, texture and movement. This season, Ilinčić turned to the work of Françoise Grossen, the Swiss-born textile artist known for monumental sculptures made through knotting, twisting and braiding rope and fiber.
From Textile Art to Fashion
Grossen’s influence appeared throughout the collection.
Braided cords wrapped around tailored jackets, ran along dresses and appeared in loose, suspended strands. Fringe moved across skirts, accessories and dramatic evening pieces, giving the clothes a tactile quality that became more visible as the models walked.
Rather than simply copying Grossen’s work, Ilinčić translated its techniques into her own fashion language. Braiding became part of the construction. Threads became decoration. Soft materials were manipulated into shapes that felt larger, stronger and more architectural.
That relationship between softness and structure has long been central to Roksanda, and Spring 2027 pushed it even further.
A New Focus on Daywear
While Roksanda is widely recognized for dramatic gowns and bold occasion dressing, Spring 2027 also placed greater attention on clothes designed for everyday life.
Relaxed tailoring, striped shirts, trousers, safari-inspired jackets, blousons and fluid separates brought a more practical side to the collection.
Even these quieter pieces remained unmistakably Roksanda. Jackets were shaped with braided details, proportions were carefully controlled, and bold color continued to play an important role.
The collection showed that the designer’s visual identity does not depend only on oversized evening gowns. Her approach to proportion, construction and color can also work across a broader wardrobe.
Roksanda Becomes the Artist
Another important element of the collection came directly from Ilinčić herself.
Before studying fashion in London, the designer studied art in Belgrade, and painting returned to her creative process this season. She transformed paintings of women’s faces into prints on large silk scarves.
Those scarves were designed to move beyond the traditional accessory. Draped across the body, they became tunics, dresses and fluid layers, blurring the line between a printed artwork and a finished garment.
Painterly color also appeared elsewhere in the collection, adding expressive strokes and movement to the clothes.
Monumental Shapes Return
As the show developed, the silhouettes became increasingly dramatic.
Large sculptural gowns, exaggerated skirts, cascading threads and braided details brought the collection closer to the monumental scale of Grossen’s fiber sculptures.
The closing looks included glossy, crocodile-effect surfaces and exaggerated volumes that projected outward from the body. They served as a reminder that even as Roksanda expands its daywear, theatrical evening dressing remains an important part of the house.
The contrast worked.
Practical pieces grounded the collection, while the larger gowns preserved the sense of spectacle that has become closely associated with Ilinčić’s work.
Art in Motion
Roksanda Spring 2027 was ultimately a study in transformation.
Rope became braid. Braid became structure. Paintings became scarves. Scarves became clothes. Traditional craft techniques were enlarged and reinterpreted through contemporary fashion.
By bringing Grossen’s textile language together with her own interest in painting, tailoring and dramatic proportion, Ilinčić created a collection that moved comfortably between art and clothing.
And while Spring 2027 introduced a more complete everyday wardrobe, Roksanda did not leave its sense of drama behind.
Instead, the collection showed how the same artistic ideas can move from a striped shirt or tailored jacket to a monumental evening gown — without losing their identity.