Lacoste Spring 2027 Turns Sweat, Speed and Clay Into Fashion
Lacoste returned to the clay of Roland-Garros for Spring 2027 with Pelagia Kolotouros interested in something far less polished than the traditional country-club version of tennis. Her collection took the heat, speed, sweat and physicality of competition and turned them into fashion, giving the French sportswear house one of its more provocative outings under her direction. The starting point was what Kolotouros described as a spirit of quiet rebellion, connecting the instincts of founder René Lacoste with a new generation less interested in playing by every established rule.
That shift was visible almost immediately. Lightweight oversized coats, breathable tailoring and airy sportswear established the foundation, but the collection became more interesting as the effects of exertion began to appear across the clothes. Polo shirts were pulled closer to the body and perforated with markings reminiscent of sweat. Joggers dropped low enough to reveal underwear waistbands, collars were deliberately misaligned or popped, and washed silks carried the relaxed texture of clothes that had already lived through something.
The strongest visual statement came through white pieces treated to appear stained by clay, moisture and heat. Rather than presenting tennis through pristine whites and manicured tradition, Kolotouros embraced what happens after the match begins. Materials were manipulated with steam so that individual layers reacted differently to humidity and temperature, allowing the garments themselves to register the idea of physical exertion. It was an effective way of making the collection’s concept visible without relying entirely on logos or familiar tennis references.
Speed became another recurring idea. Volumes shifted, graphics carried more energy and accessories pushed the athletic language forward. The ACE-T1 sneaker was developed around the visual tension of a tennis net being struck, with a tennis-ball-inspired heel turning one of the sport’s most recognizable objects into a product detail. Those ideas sat comfortably beside floor-length washed-silk pieces, oversized outerwear and relaxed tailoring, expanding Lacoste beyond straightforward performance clothing without abandoning its identity.
That balance matters for Lacoste. Few fashion houses arrive on the luxury runway with a sporting identity this specific, which means every collection has to acknowledge tennis without simply replaying the archive. Kolotouros appears increasingly comfortable with that challenge. Instead of treating heritage as something untouchable, Spring 2027 uses it as material to disturb, stretch and reinterpret.
The result is a Lacoste that feels less concerned with looking perfectly dressed for the club and more interested in what happens once the body starts moving. Sweat marks, slipping waistlines, imperfect collars and clay-stained surfaces would once have represented everything sportswear was supposed to conceal. Here, they become the point. Spring 2027 suggests Lacoste may have found its most convincing modern position by accepting that sport becomes considerably more interesting when things get a little messy.
