The New York designer brought denim, tailoring, and day-to-night dressing into his signature universe of unapologetic sensuality – signaling a larger evolution for the brand.
LaQuan Smith built a fashion language that rarely needed an introduction. It was body-conscious, unapologetically sexy and unmistakably designed for a woman prepared to be seen.
For Spring/Summer 2027, the designer appears interested in a bigger question: what does that woman wear during the rest of her day?
Presented September 14 at the Winter Garden at Brookfield Place in New York, Smith’s latest collection expanded his recognizable after-dark vocabulary into denim, poplin, shirtdresses, outerwear and increasingly assertive tailoring — without sacrificing the sensuality that has made the Queens-born designer one of New York’s most recognizable purveyors of glamour.
A LaQuan Wardrobe, Not Just a LaQuan Moment
The change is intentional.
Smith has acknowledged that his customer is evolving and looking for more ways to wear the brand beyond nightlife. Spring 2027 answered with clothes that could exist at multiple points throughout a woman’s day.
Ruffled blouses were grounded with denim. Shirtdresses arrived with asymmetric cuts. Dark denim sets could be adjusted through zipper details. Tailoring became sharper while remaining engineered around the body. Smith refers to part of this new territory as “bombshell suiting” — a fitting description for clothes trying to reconcile polish with provocation.
It does not mean the LaQuan Smith woman has suddenly become conservative. Quite the opposite.
Hard, Soft and Deliberately Unresolved
One of Spring 2027’s strongest ideas was contrast.
Embossed python, feathered surfaces and animal-inspired prints appeared beside lace, fluid fabrications and lighter evening pieces. Sportier jackets interrupted flirtier skirts. Sharp structure met movement and transparency.
An orange gown delivered one of the collection’s most overtly sensual statements, while darker denim and tailoring provided a more grounded counterpoint.
That push and pull is important because Smith’s challenge is not simply making daywear. Plenty of brands make jackets, denim, and shirts. The challenge is making those categories feel undeniably LaQuan.
For PMG, that is where this collection becomes more interesting. Expanding a successful brand usually requires introducing more categories without diluting the identity customers originally bought into. Spring 2027 suggests Smith understands that distinction.
The Business Behind the Evolution
There may also be a commercial reason for broadening the wardrobe.
In an interview with WWD ahead of the show, Smith said sales following Fall 2026 had increased between approximately 70 and 72 percent, with buyers responding positively to improved fit and pricing. He also said attracting additional international retailers is among his objectives while continuing relationships with specialty boutiques. That puts Spring 2027 into a different context.
Denim, shirting, tailoring and adaptable day-to-evening pieces potentially give retailers more entry points into the collection — and give customers more opportunities to participate in the brand than an occasion dress or nightlife look alone.
Smith’s company already has international ambitions. The designer’s official biography notes that the label is headquartered and manufactured in Long Island City and serves clients globally. Smith founded his company at 21 and formally debuted the label in 2013, after early support from figures including Beyoncé, Rihanna and Lady Gaga.
Spring 2027 looks increasingly like the work of a designer considering what the next stage of that business should become.
LaQuan Smith Meets Children of Blood and Bone
The runway also reached beyond fashion through a collaboration with Paramount Pictures tied to the upcoming Children of Blood and Bone.
Smith created three exclusive looks inspired by the film, extending the project’s visual universe through his own design language. The limited-edition pieces are expected to be available through Moda Operandi.
It is a particularly natural crossover for a designer whose work has long existed at the intersection of fashion, celebrity, performance and image-making.
What Comes Next
Spring 2027 does not represent LaQuan Smith leaving the party behind. It represents him asking how much larger the party can become.
The sheer dresses, exposed skin, high-impact silhouettes and unmistakable glamour are still present. What has changed is the framework around them. There are more jackets. More denim. More tailoring. More opportunities for the woman wearing LaQuan Smith to move between different parts of her life without leaving the brand behind.
The strongest idea of the season may therefore have less to do with any single dress.
LaQuan Smith is trying to become a wardrobe.
And if the recent sales momentum continues, that evolution could prove just as important to the business as it is to the runway.
Imagery from the show is credited to Theo Wargo