At London Fashion Week, Pauline Dujancourt transformed heartbreak, independence and renewal into an intensely handcrafted Spring 2027 collection.
Pauline Dujancourt has built a world around emotion, femininity and the expressive possibilities of knitwear. For Spring 2027, the London-based French designer pushed that language further, presenting a collection that moved through darkness toward release while simultaneously expanding the possibilities of her young label.
Inspired in part by Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant, Dujancourt approached the season as an emotional journey. The collection followed seven states associated with the loss of love: despair, grief, fear, pain, bitterness, sadness and ultimately relief.
Those emotions translated directly into color and texture. Dark blues and flashes of orange reflected despair, while pink appeared alongside black and white as the collection moved through pain. By the finale, the palette arrived at pure white—a visual release from the emotional weight that came before it.
Emotion Through Craft
Dujancourt’s strength has always been her ability to make handcraft feel intensely personal.
For Spring 2027, cascading lace, crochet, chiffon streamers, floral details and softly manipulated silhouettes appeared throughout the collection. Draped skirts were gathered into asymmetric forms, while pleated and puffed sleeves brought controlled volume to otherwise delicate garments.
The designer described her approach as creating emotional textiles through handmade processes. Her experience with synesthesia also influenced the collection, leading to what she called a “tears library”—lace and crochet constructions created to express different forms of grief, pain and eventual relief.
The result was romantic without becoming fragile. Dujancourt allowed techniques traditionally associated with softness and femininity to communicate resilience instead.
700 Flowers for the Finale
The craftsmanship reached its clearest expression in the collection’s finale.
A long bridal gown with delicate straps and a sweetheart neckline was covered with more than 700 individually handwoven alpaca flowers layered across organza and tulle. The flowers reportedly required more than two weeks of work in Peru before the dress was assembled in London over another ten days.
Bridal is becoming a more significant part of Dujancourt’s business, and Spring 2027 expanded that direction through patterned satin, tightly constructed lace and sheer fabrics.
But the collection also showed another important evolution.
Alongside the elaborate handmade pieces were trousers, tanks, jackets and other garments designed with everyday wardrobes in mind. Rather than allowing the runway fantasy and commercial business to exist separately, Dujancourt is beginning to connect the two.
From Craft to a Growing Fashion House
That shift comes as the designer enters a new stage of growth.
Following her 2026 ANDAM Special Prize and participation in Dover Street Market Paris’ brand development program, Dujancourt has been expanding her teams across Peru, France and the United Kingdom while responding to increasing wholesale demand.
The challenge is clear: preserve the labor-intensive handcraft that established her identity while developing pieces that can reach more customers.
Spring 2027 suggests she is beginning to find that balance.
The handwoven flowers, intricate crochet and dreamlike dresses remain unmistakably Pauline Dujancourt. But surrounding them is the foundation of something larger—a wardrobe, a business and a designer increasingly prepared to step beyond the shadows.